Best Containers For Weed Seeds When Starting

What type of containers or pots work best for seedlings? Let’s examine a variety of seed starting systems. Then we’ll look at the pros and cons. Hopefully this will guide you in selecting a growing system that works best in your situation. Learn about the types of containers for growing weed to find the optimal container for fast and healthy growth of your cannabis plants. Containers come in various shapes and sizes. They play an important role in growing cannabis, especially if you’re planting autoflowering seeds. Autoflowe

Seed Starting: Containers

You’ve picked out the varieties you want to grow. You ordered your seeds. Now you need to plant them! What type of containers or pots work best for seedlings? Let’s examine a variety of seed starting systems. Then we’ll look at the pros and cons. Hopefully this will guide you in selecting a growing system that works best in your situation.

How to Select the Right Seedling Pots

The first and more important thing to bear in mind is that when it comes to seed starting, there is no perfect, single solution. What’s the best seed starting container? The answer to that question will depend upon the factors that are most important to you:

PLANT QUANTITY: The number of plants you plan on growing will have a huge impact on the growing system you decide to implement. For example, in a production environment like a greenhouse or nursery, you need to produce thousands of seedlings. To produce a high volume of seedlings, nurseries rely on systems that are compact and allow for smaller, denser plants.

PLANT SIZE: What if you are a small scale urban gardener who only grows a few peppers and tomatoes? You may benefit from a system that supports larger, more vigorous seedlings. Growing massive plants with well established root systems gives you a great head start on the growing season. Healthier plants are more disease and pest resistant too. So a seedling container that grows plants with larger root systems might be exactly what you need.

UPFRONT COST: We only have so much money. Many gardeners look at growing food as a way to SAVE money (not spend more). Other gardening hobbyists have no problem dumping hundreds of dollars in a system that only generates a fraction of what they invested. But they don’t care because it’s something they love doing. Starting seeds can be super cheap or maybe a little more costly, depending on what method you choose. Some systems require an upfront investment that slowly pays for itself over a course of years. So we’ll look at what each system has to offer.

RENEWABILITY: Some seed starting solutions may seem simple and affordable at first glance. But a few of these systems are designed in a way that you’ll have to come back, year after year to buy them again and again. This is something worth considering. Would you prefer a reusable product that you can clean and use again next year?

Video: Seed Starting Containers:
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Seedling Container Options:

SEEDLING POTS: A simple, highly reliable method for starting seedlings is to just grow each one in its own individual pot. Opting for this method allows you to custom select the pot size and shape that best suits your needs.

It’s so easy to mix and match your seedling containers. For standard sized plants like lettuce, I find that 2.25″ square pots offer a nice balance of rooting size in a compact space. For larger plants like tomatoes, you can easily upgrade to 1 quart pots, allowing the plants to stretch out nicely. You can also select pots that have a more depth for better root systems.

Separate seedling pots allow you to scale up or down in plant size and plant quantity. Plants can be spaced out as they get bigger for better airflow. They can be easily irrigated from the bottom or even placed onto a watering mat. Such pots are easy to wash and reuse year after year. Of course, they may become hard to manage once you start juggling a very large quantity. So keep that in mind.

SALVAGED POTS: Have you ever bought a seedling or a small herb pot that came in its own little potting container? Hopefully you didn’t throw the container away! I always hold onto mine. Time and again they have come in handy. Even if I just put a plant into one of these and then give it to a friend.

As your collection grows, you’ll likely find that you have a stockpile of various sizes. That includes containers with extra depth for better root systems. Depending on the application, you can pick the pot size that is just big enough for whatever plant you’re growing.

Reusing nursery pots makes a lot of sense. It saves you money. But it also diverts materials away from the landfill. I encourage people to recycle and reuse materials when practical. In the case of salvaged potting containers, it’s a no brainer!

DRINKING CUPS / FOOD CONTAINERS: If you are brand new to gardening, you might not have many materials on hand. Starting from scratch can be daunting. And it can be quite costly. But it doesn’t have to be that way. Recycling containers is a free way to acquire some seedling containers without spending a penny!

Why not rinse out some used party cups? Or you could clean some plastic food containers that are shaped properly for growing plants. I’ve used yogurt containers. Once clean, all you need to do is add some drain holes. I typically use a utility knife to cut triangular holes at the base.

To conserve potting mix and further save money, you don’t actually need to fill the containers up all the way. This is especially true for less vigorous plants that don’t have aggressive root systems. Even with larger plants like tomatoes, you could simply choose to plant them outside before they get oversized and become root bound.

NET CUPS: Net cups were developed for use in hydroponics. These basket shaped cups have open slits in the sides and bottom. The openings allow plant roots to grow freely into rooting medium, nutrient solution or even into highly humid air!

Some people have found that net cups can be utilized in growing seedlings. In a standard growing environment, the roots grow to the sides and then stop as they hit dry air. This effect is called air pruning and it prevents unwanted circling of roots. The cups themselves can be placed onto a watering mat allowing them to draw up water as needed.

Net cups can be bought in bulk at a low price. The smaller cups are quite affordable, although they can be very flimsy. Larger cups would support larger plants and would also be easier to clean and re-use again.

COW / PEAT / COIR POTS: Perhaps you’ve see square or round pots that have a texture similar to cardboard pulp. It’s possible to find pots made from several biodegradable materials. Peat pots are made from peat moss. Coir or Coco pots are made from recycled coconut fiber. And CowPots are derived from composted cow manure. All of these are marketed with the intent that you can just plant the entire seedling into the ground and the pot will break down, allowing the seedling to grow to mature size.

Each of these materials has varying levels of sustainability. Some environmentalists oppose the use of peat moss for horticultural use due to the negative impacts of harvesting it. Coir is a more renewable alternative since it is a by-product of the coconut industry. Processing cow poo into a pot is also a cool way to utilize a resource that might otherwise be considered waste.

Some gardeners have complained that their biodegradable pot never properly decomposed during the growing season. If this happens, your plant may become root bound and its growth will be stunted. To avoid this, I peel away the pot and toss the pieces in the ground at planting time.

If your pot is kept moist and is breaking down quickly you may be just fine. One way to tell is to examine the outside edges of the pot before planting. Have plant roots begun to poke through the edges? These pots are meant to air prune the roots, preventing root spiralling. If you see tips of roots, then once you plant this in the ground, you know the roots will be ready to quickly spread out into the native soil. Growth will not be restricted and you should have good results. One final thought: these are consumable products. So you will be stuck buying new ones every year.

SEEDLING FLATS / CELL PACKS & TRAYS: Seedling flats offer tiny cells of soil for each plant. This high density system allows a lot of plants to be squeezed into a small space. Each flat is usually placed into an accompanying tray. The tray offers structure during transport. The trays also can hold excess water, keeping things neat.

Such systems are very common and cheap to implement. They devote only a small amount of potting media to any given plant. But seedling trays are most useful in a nursery or greenhouse application. They may not be the best solution in a small scale home environment.

In my personal experience, I’ve found the trays to be hard to water. Top irrigation works ok, but can be quite messy inside the home. I’ve tried lifting the flat and dumping water underneath into the tray. This bottom watering method is neater. But it’s easy to over water. Also, some cells become over-saturated while seedlings on the edges may dry out faster. Root rot, fungus gnats and mildews can quickly follow. Using a system like this on a self-watering wicking mat can be a very helpful upgrade.

JIFFY PELLETS: Jiffy pellets are little compressed disks of peat moss (or sometimes coir) that expand when soaked in water. The pellets can take a while to absorb the water. But each one is a stand alone “pot” that comes with its own potting mix and nutrients. A simple solution for first time gardeners. Just add water and seeds!

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As with a few other options out there, these also air prune the side roots. The squishy cylinder of potting mix is held together by a thin netting. Supposedly, plants roots can grow right through these, once planted in the ground. But some people have had issues with this. It might be safe to cut away the netting at planting time.

There are several sizes that will support various levels of plant size versus plant quantity. Of course, these are consumable products that you’ll be stuck buying again and again. But you can buy packs of just pellets (refills) at a reasonable price. And remember: these save you from buying seed starting mix.

CONE-TAINERS / RAY LEACH TUBES: Cone-tainers are a system developed by the forestry industry for a way of propagating young tree seedlings. These containers are very deep, allowing for a longer tap root. At the same time, they are narrow which works in a production environment where plant density is needed.

The cone-tainer system could certainly be used by a home gardener. But there are several things to consider. This system is has a somewhat limited availability. You may not find it in the typical big box stores or even in local garden centers. When purchased online, I’ve found them to be more expensive than common alternatives like flats and trays.

Cone-tainers require a stand for support. This makes them hard to handle in small batches. They are difficult to water from below. I like that you can pick up and move one or two cones as needed. But they are still cumbersome in small spaces. I recommend these for starting onions or leeks indoors from seed. You can grow lots of onions, while allowing for plenty of vertical root growth.

AIR-POTS: An Air-pot is a specially designed growing system built around one simple concept: air pruning of roots. These pots are shaped in such a way that they will guide roots along a channel that is cut open to the air. Once root tips reach the opening, they dry out and become “air pruned”. The growth tip does not spiral. Instead it terminates. This results in more, branching roots being sent out from the plant.

Regular pots will result in a big ball of entangled roots. The larger the plant gets, the bigger the issue. Poorly watered plants tend to send out extra root growth, further worsening the problem. But plants grown in air-pots have a dense, fibrous network of feeder roots. At the outer edges, there is no entanglement. Instead, the roots are pointing outward, ready to resume growth once planted into the ground. Air-pots are TRUE air pruning systems in that the even air prune the bottom roots. Many systems cannot achieve this effect.

In particular, air-pots are great for growing healthy perennials like herbs and even trees. Perennials are permanent fixtures in your garden that you want to keep for many years. But planting a root bound tree in the ground gives it a horrible start in life. It stunts plants and ultimately leads to increased death rates.

Air-pots are a more costly growth system, especially when compared to other seed starting solutions. But they offer a small pot that is about a quart in capacity, and not as expensive. So you could use this for your larger seedlings that will be allowed to mature quite a bit before planting outdoors.

SOIL BLOCKERS: Soil blockers are a pretty unique idea. They compress a special soil mix that forms small blocks or cubes of soil for your seedlings to take root. Each blocker has several squares allowing you to press out multiple blocks with each action. There is a tiny air space separating them, much like ice cubes in an ice cube tray. Ideally you would have a tray that you press them onto and then leave them in place.

The soil blocker system offers small, medium and large blocks. So you can start a large volume of seedlings. But you can also upgrade the blocks by fitting them into large blocks as plants get bigger. These cubes o’ dirt need to be kept moist. I recommend placing them onto a capillary mat to supply water from underneath.

Soil blockers are a little more costly up front. But they are a truly sustainable system that will last for a long time. There is no waste. No containers to store. And as an added bonus, plant roots are air pruned on the sides, preventing the plant becoming root-bound.

I’ve never personally grown seedlings in these. I imagine it could be tricky to move these around in a small grow chamber. Rearranging plants might be a pain. I also can’t imagine offering these plants to friends without first finding a way to protect the blocks from being squished or drying out. If you have a physical limitation, like arthritis, using these for a large volume of plants might be difficult. Otherwise, these seem rather ingenious and they just might fit your needs perfectly.

ALBO-STEIN SELF-WATERING SIP: This system is a little bonus that I wanted to throw in there. Each of these is constructed from a Clorox wipes container with a yogurt container nested into it. It’s built on the same idea as using repurposed or upcycled containers for growing plants. But this system take things much further!

Each albo-stein holds 1 quart of potting mix. But it also has a self-contained water reservoir that can store 3 cups of water. This water slowly wicks up, through the use of a cord. As the seedling grows, water gets drawn up through capillary forces. It makes it super easy to water some very big seedlings.

These containers are fairly large and so you can’t fit a lot of them into a small space. But these are a great way for a small scale urban gardener to grow some huge pepper or tomato seedlings, without having them dry out as they get big. I have a complete write up on these if you’d like to know more. Perhaps this design could be used with other containers that you encounter in your daily life.

Types Of Pots For Growing Weed

Not all growing containers are equal. Some types of containers are better suited for some purposes than others. Likewise, growing pots don’t just differ in size. You can find containers from the classic flower pot to advanced smart pots or specialty containers for hydro systems. Learn what you need to know about growing containers for weed.

Cannabis cultivation, cannabis history, cannabis culture


  1. Types of growing containers available
    1. Standard flower pot
    2. Smart pots (fabric pots)
    3. Rqs fabric pot with aqua-breathe layer
    4. Air pots
    5. Hempy buckets
    6. Catching runoff water with saucers
    7. What size of growing container is best
    8. Growing containers for seedlings
    9. Transplanting your plants into bigger growing containers

    Selecting the optimal growing containers for weed isn’t always easy and straight forward. While you may be able to get by with the ol’ flower pot for your first grow, you want to choose the right growing containers, that provide for optimal growth and healthy plants. Let us take a look at the various types of growing containers available along with their differences, advantages and drawbacks.

    If we were to simplify things a bit, the optimal growing containers for your weed plants would be those types of pots, that will provide your plants with the best possible environment for their roots. Healthy roots are essential for optimal nutrition and water intake and quite literally are the foundation for the healthy growth of your plants.

    Knowing this, we can go from there when we want to find the optimal type of pot, since we can take into account what cannabis plants need for healthy roots:

    The roots of your cannabis plants should never entirely dry out, since dried-out roots mean, that your plants would likely die.

    Roots will also want adequate aeration and oxygen. When the roots have easy access to oxygen, this not only promotes fast growth, but will also help keeping mould and other growing troubles in check. A stale root zone depleted of oxygen will almost always lead to problems, if not entirely kill off your plants.

    Geotextile Transplanting Pot


    If you visit a grow store or search around online to get some pots on the internet, you can find various types of containers for cannabis growing. Here are some of the most common types of growing pots.


    This is the good ol’ flower pot, that you can get almost everywhere for little money. They are most often made from plastic these days, but you can also find the old classic types, which are made from terracotta. If you get these standard flower pots, you will usually want to get them together with a matching saucer, that serves to catch your runoff water below the pot.

    What’s important to know about these types of pots, is that you want them to have drainage holes at the bottom to avoid water logging. Not all pots come with prebored holes, sometimes you will have to break them out, before you use the containers to grow your plants.

    Terracotta planters are heavier than plastic pots, but they can be a good choice. Terracotta has a natural ability to soak up and store excess moisture and can provide a cooling effect, which would benefit your plant’s roots in the hot summer months.


    The principle behind fabric pots, these so called “smart pots”, is to prevent, that your plants would become rootbound. Rather than growing in a cycle as would be the case in normal (closed) pots, smart pots made from fabric are air-pruning the roots as soon as they reach the sides of the container. This ensures constant new growth of roots and can help promote better plant growth.

    Fabric growing pots or bags have the added advantage, that they make it pretty much impossible to overwater a cannabis plant. They can also easily be stored when not in use.

    Make note, that the soil in smart pots dries out faster when compared to standard pots. To avoid the smart pots drying out too fast, you want to get double the size pots as you normally would. Of course this comes with the slight drawback, that you will require a bigger amount of growing medium. Since these types of pots leak water to the outside, they may not be suitable for all growing environments.


    Royal Queen Seeds re-engineered the standard smart pot to create an improved version that continues to air-prune roots for enhanced growth while preventing overwatering. But it also includes several new features that make it easier to use.

    If you’ve ever struggled to move a standard smart pot once your plants reach their full size, you’ll really appreciate the convenient side handles of the RQS fabric pot. They’re double-stitched and securely attached to the main body of the pot. You won’t believe the difference they make.

    Although it’s not as clearly visible as the handles, the inner “Aqua Breathe” layer is the real game-changer. This inner layer of specialised material gives the RQS Fabric Pot another advantage over a standard smart pot. It allows air to flow through the pot, but ensures the water drains only from the bottom and not from the sides. Not only does this keep your grow space cleaner and preserve your nutrient mix, it prevents unsightly salt stains from forming on the sides of the pot.

    Featuring the iconic RQS logo embroidered on the side in gold, the RQS Fabric Pot is a useful and attractive addition to any grow space. It can be used inside or out, in hydro or in soil, and it’s environmentally friendly. It’s washable, biodegradable, and available in a convenient 11-litre size.


    Air pots make use of the same principles as the above mentioned “smart” pots. These are plastic containers with openings on the side, that provide automated “air-pruning” for the roots of your cannabis plant. Like smart pots, you will have to water more often, since these pots can dry out faster as compared to standard pots. Compared to fabric pots and grow bags, air pots have the advantage, that they are sturdier and won’t likely tip over. Since air pots are also leaking water from the openings at the side, you may want to set them above properly sized saucers.


    Hempy buckets are providing a type of manual hydroponic system for growing cannabis plants. The difference to normal pots is, that the drainage hole isn’t at the bottom, but several centimetres above, which leaves a small reservoir of nutrient solution at the bottom of the hempy bucket.

    As compared to soil grows, you would normally fill the hempy bucket with a mix of perlite and vermiculite or use clay pebbles and then feed the plants with hydroponic nutrients. The nutrient reservoir at the bottom of the bucket means, that you can water less frequently.

    Since hempy buckets are a manual and passive way of hydroponic growing with no pumps for oxygen, you need to ensure, that the nutrient solution left in the pot won’t become stagnant, since this could lead to growing troubles.


    Since you don’t want runoff water flooding your entire growing area, you want saucers placed under your pots. Normally, you would have a matching saucer for each of your growing containers.

    Some types of growing containers like smart pots or air pots will require much bigger saucers, since excess water will flow down the sides when watering. Take this into account.

    Most cannabis growers will likely get into a routine of frequently emptying out their saucers. This isn’t much of a problem if your plants are still small and you can easily access any pot in your growing area. Sometimes, in particular when your plants have grown taller, reaching to each and every pot and removing the saucers can become quite a chore, if not entirely impossible due to space constraints.

    One solution for this problem can be if you use large trays underneath a number of growing pots as opposed to smaller, individual saucers under each. If you set this large runoff tray on a small incline, the water will usually collect in one space and you can then easily remove it with a shop vac.

    Another more advanced solution can be with an automated pump, that can take care of the runoff water, that will collect in your tray.


    Not all cannabis plants require the same size of growing containers. Some plants, for example autoflowering varieties, are not growing too tall and can do well in smaller or medium sized containers. When you select the size of your growing pot, consider the final size of your cannabis plant.

    As a first starting point for selecting the right size pots, you can use pot sizes of approximately 7.5l for each 30cm of plant height. Just know, that not all cannabis varieties grow in the same way. Some strains can grow wide and bushy, while others can grow tall and slender, but this rule can help you get started finding the right sized pot.


    The same principles for healthy growth will apply for smaller containers for your seedlings. You need to ensure proper drainage for your seedlings as well. Since pots for seedlings can be very small and don’t hold too much growing medium, the soil dries out quicker, which means, that the risk of overwatering is lower.

    Many cannabis growers use solo cups (“party cups”) for their seedlings without problems. Just make sure to cut drainage holes in the bottom of the cup.

    Not always can it be recommended to start out cannabis plants in a small pot or cup and then transplant them later. Any repotting will always cause some stress to your plants, that you want to avoid.

    For autoflowering varieties, that by their nature have a preset and rather short life cycle, it can often be best to start these plants in their final container. The reasoning here is, that you want to avoid any stunted and halted growth from repotting during their short growing life cycle if you want to max out your plant’s growth and yield.


    Most of the time (with some exceptions as mentioned above) you will likely start out your seedlings or clones in small containers and transplant them to bigger pots when the right time has come. The reason here is, that a bigger container allows for a larger root system, that your now rather grown-up cannabis plant will require to get all her nutrients.

    Transplanting on the other hand can always cause some stress for your plants and if not done carefully, could even kill your plant, say, should you damage the roots when transplanting. It is therefore important, that you move your plants, so that you don’t disrupt their roots in any way.

    The best time to transplant is when your cannabis plant has developed a vast root system, but is not rootbound in the pot yet. Normally, the right time for a transplant is when your plant’s roots would show through the holes of your pot, as if they were searching for more room to grow. You want to avoid the plant having become completely rootbound though.

    Carefully take out the plant from the first pot and try not to disturb the roots. In the bigger pot, make a hole in the middle of the growing medium where you carefully place the plant. Fill any remaining gaps in the new pot up with soil or whatever growing medium you are using.

    When you transplant your seedlings, the best time for larger ports is usually when the seedlings have grown 3-4 sets of leaves.

    If you want to avoid any type of potential growing troubles and want to keep it on the safe side, simply skip transplanting altogether and start your plants in their final pots. Your plants may start out slower than if you were to start them in smaller pots, but the reduced risk and then the less work from transplanting can be worth it, especially for less experienced growers.

    Types of containers to grow autoflowering seeds

    Containers are very important if you want to get the best yields. Know more about the different types of containers to grow autoflowers!

    • 1. Things to remember when choosing containers
    • 2. Paint buckets
    • 3. Plastic containers
    • 4. Terracotta containers
    • 5. Cement pots
    • 6. Smart pots
    • 7. Air pots
    • 8. What is the right sized container for the best autoflower cultivation?
    • 8. a. Indoor cultivation
    • 8. b. Outdoor cultivation
    • 9. In conclusion

    Containers come in various shapes and sizes. They play an important role in growing cannabis, especially if you’re planting autoflowering seeds. Autoflowering cannabis varieties are a little different compared to photoperiod strains because they don’t grow as big as the latter. This makes it even more important for you to choose the best container. It might make sense for you to just select a big container to grow your autos. However, that’s not a good idea. Just like your potted flowers don’t do well in large containers, autoflowers also tend to struggle if you plant them in containers that are just too big.

    On the other hand, choosing really small containers will also hinder the growth, and you’ll end up with small plants with tiny buds. Thus, as you can see, it gets a bit tricky. Also, containers don’t differ just in their sizes. You have to look at the type of container. For instance, a plastic pot may not perform as well as a smart pot. In some cases, an airpot can be your best friend. No matter what you choose, you must go for something meant specifically for autoflowers, and that’s exactly what we will discuss today.

    1. Things to remember when choosing containers

    For growing autoflowering cannabis plants, choosing a container can be tricky. However, once you understand how the plant responds, you’ll be able to do a better job. To choose a container for autoflowers, you need to know how long the plant will survive. A little information on how tall and big the plant grows will also help. Many people underestimate the importance of containers, but they always end up paying a heavy price at the end of it all. Remember that you need to consider the amount of space you have. If the plant performs very well in a 3-gallon container, purchasing a 5-gallon will not only take up more space but you’ll also spend a lot more money as well. Most autoflowers grow well in 3-gallon pots, but you can always experiment with one plant before planting ten different seeds.

    Another important thing to remember is that most autoflowers don’t perform well if they are transplanted. Of course, expert growers start with small containers and move on to bigger ones even with autos, but it’s simply not recommended. It’s critical to grow plants in containers that allow them to breathe. If not, the roots suffocate and the plant eventually dies. Healthy roots are the foundation to growing big plants that produce fantastic juicy buds. Also, don’t choose pots that completely dry out the roots. The key word is “damp” here where the roots aren’t completely swimming in water or are totally dry. In short, select containers that give your plants an abundance of oxygen. Roots love it when they can breathe.

    Pro Tip – Never start off your autoflowering seeds in dixie cups or any small plastic containers because you’ll force the plant to become root-bound.

    2. Paint buckets

    If you don’t like spending a little extra on containers, regular paint buckets are a fantastic way to grow plants. Those with the urge to “DIY” everything will surely love this. The only problem is that they don’t come with holes at the bottom, but you can easily drill a few holes yourself. There are a few concerns about using paint buckets since some paint manufacturers include lead in their paints. As you will be smoking the buds, this can be scary. Thus, you can either ditch the idea of using these buckets or you can use paints that don’t have lead in them. Just make sure that you wash all the paint thoroughly before using them.

    3. Plastic containers

    These are your standard containers that suit any plant. They are available anywhere – online and local nurseries. While these are easy to use, you must take care while growing cannabis, especially the autoflowering varieties. Plastic containers tend to make the roots stick together, and they eventually become root-bound. However, if you have no other choice, plastic pots ranging from 3 to 5 gallons will also work well.

    Just ensure that there are ample holes at the bottom of the container so that the water drains out or you’ll end up with soggy roots that will kill your plant faster than you’ve ever imagined. If you don’t see any holes (it happens sometimes) simply punch 5-10 holes at the bottom, and you’re good to go. Most plastic containers come with small saucers that help to catch all the water draining out of the pot.

    4. Terracotta containers

    Terracotta containers are also available anywhere. Growing autoflowers or any plant in terracotta pots may be a smart choice because the clay absorbs excess moisture while keeping the roots damp. They work amazingly well outdoors, but they may not work well if you’re growing indoors because they are a tad heavy, and it may be difficult to shift the pots from one spot to another. Similar to plastic pots, anything from 3-5 gallons will work well.

    5. Cement pots

    Cement pots look just like terracotta pots, but they are made of cement instead of clay as the name suggests. They are sturdy and last for a long, long time. However, it can be a pain in the neck if you intend to grow anything indoors because they are super heavy. Not only will it be a hindrance to moving the pots easily, but you’ll also struggle whenever you water the pots.

    6. Smart pots

    Smart pots are all the rage these days. And, with good reason! Made out of fabric, smart pots provide ample oxygen to the roots that help them breathe. Basically, smart pots prevent the plants from becoming root-bound. Take the example of a plastic container. If you observe carefully, you’ll see that the roots follow the structure of the pot. Eventually, the roots grow in a circle and become root-bound if you don’t transplant them as quickly as possible. However, with smart pots, you’ll never have to worry about the plant becoming root-bound.

    Why? Well, it’s because the roots are air-pruned naturally whenever they travel to the edge of the pot. The pruned roots give birth to secondary roots that make the plant stronger and bigger. Additionally, unlike plastic pots, you don’t have to worry about over-watering your favorite auto plant because all the excess water immediately drains out. This is an especially critical point because it’s very easy to over-water autoflowers, and there’s no quicker way to kill them. Most importantly, they are light and can be folded and stored when you’re not using them.

    The only disadvantage of smart pots is that the growing medium can dry out too quickly. However, you can prevent the issue by watering a little more or choosing a slightly bigger container. A 5-gallon smart pot will suit most autoflowering plants, although many people get great results even with 3-gallon pots. If you’re growing indoors, you may want to place something below the smart pots to absorb the water or you’ll end up with a lot of water everywhere.

    7. Air pots

    Just like smart pots, air pots also provide enough oxygen for the roots to breathe as much as they want. They are made of plastic with several openings or holes to allow the plant’s roots to expand everywhere. Although they work very similar to smart pots, they are a little more expensive.

    However, they are a bit heavier, and it can be an advantage or disadvantage depending on how you perceive it. Even air pots dry a little faster compared to plastic and terracotta pots. Thus, make sure you provide a little more water to the plant.

    8. What is The Right Sized Container For The Best Autoflower Cultivation?

    Ok, so we have covered all the most common types of containers for autoflowering cannabis cultivation, but we haven’t talked yet about what sized pot is best. When growing autos, one of the most important factors to take into consideration is the fact that they simply do not handle any form of stress particularly well. Why not?

    Well, it’s due to the pre-determined lifecycle. Unlike photoperiod cannabis strains, autos do not have the luxury of a never-ending vegetative growth period if kept under certain lighting conditions. As long as you keep the lights on 18 hours a day, a photo strain will continue to veg. Why is this important? Because every time you stress a plant you stunt its growth for anywhere between a couple of days to more than a week, depending on the type and intensity of the stress. This is fine for photo strains, as you can just increase the veg time, but the same can not be said for autoflowering strains.

    Every time you transplant a cannabis plant you stress it. The act of moving it from one pot to another will result in at least some form of disturbance to the root zone, so with autos, we always recommend starting the plant in the pot you intend to harvest from. This ensures the least amount of stress, which results in the best possible yield size and potency.

    Ok, so what size container should you use for the best results?

    This isn’t the most straightforward question to answer, as it is dependent on how many plants you plant to cultivate in your grow room. But, to keep things simple, let’s just assume that you are wanting to allow every single plant to grow to its absolute largest possible potential size.

    Indoor Cultivation

    From our extensive experience and testing, when growing indoors it is best to use a container that is at least 3 gallons in size (that’s 12 liters for you continental folk). Again, it’s pretty hard to give an overall answer as it depends on which strain you are growing, but as a general rule, any container smaller than this can have an effect on the final yield. If you have the room then we suggest going even bigger.

    Outdoor Cultivation

    When growing outdoors, you have less control over the environmental factors which can play a huge role in inhibiting the overall growth. So we want to give the roots the best chance they can get at growing huge. We recommend using 5-gallon pots for all outdoor autoflower cultivation methods. It may seem like a bit of overkill, but why not give your ladies the best chance at thriving and supplying you with copious amounts of that dank stick-icky!

    9. In Conclusion

    So, what type of container is the best to grow auto-flowering seeds? Well, based on grow reviews, you can safely say that smart pots are the best. As long as you make sure that the growing medium doesn’t dry out quickly, smart pots will produce big plants that are a sight to your sore eyes!

See also  Weed Seed Germination Diagram