Weed And Seed Lowes

I was in Lowes today and was buying stuff for the yard and apperantly they are having a sale on Sta-Green Grass Signature Blend Grass Seed its regular $56… See why DIY Lawn Fertilizer from Home Depot and Lowes vs Online Retailers are better and more cost effective per square foot than you might think! My Lowes 4 step fertiizer weed and feed program. Use Scotts or Sta-Green. I show you how to create a weed free program for a lush green lawn every year!

Grass Seed and Winterizer Fertilizers onsale at Lowes Now 25% off

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chuckyH
Senior member

I was in Lowes today and was buying stuff for the yard and apperantly they are having a sale on Sta-Green Grass Signature Blend Grass Seed its regular $56 and is now $43 for the 50lb bag, clerk said the price was probly just through this weekend and shows up at the register not on the shelf. Also they had the Sta-Green Winterizer Plus Weed And Feed Fertilizer with $4 dollar rebates on the 5M and $7 on the 15M bags with no limit on how many bags you can get a rebate on – rebate good through Oct 31 2004. I think that some of the other brands may have been on sale but those are what I got. I am not sure if this is nation wide but if not I will change it to YMMV
:shocked:

Edit: Found out that all ferts and grass seed is 25% off with the rebate on the 5M Sta-Green winterizer plus weed and feed that make those bags $2 and some odd cents a bag!! normaly $8.97 I think.

MrCoffee
Member

Thanks! My lawn can use all the help it can get. It’s probably time I start planning for the Fall/Winter.

will792
Member

Most of the seed in Lowes/HD is low quality. The best grass seed is carried by good landscaping supply stores and specialized seed companies. It is better to use seed mixed for your area. One source for Northeast is http://www.crosmanseed.com (Upstate NY) and for MA http://www.snow-pond.com/ (Environmental blend). The premium quality seed is more expensive than cheap variety but ends up cheaper long term as it requires less care (less frequent mowing due to slower growth and less fertilizing).

Most of state universities have web pages on lawn management with advice on grass seed selection. One for CT is http://www.hort.uconn.edu/ipm/homegrnd/htms/58lcm.htm . Their advice is the best is they are not biased and specialize in this area.

Chunkee
Lifer

i tell you what, i bought rebel grass seed, supposed to be good. my friggin yard is full of weeds. what a crock. i think the retail grass seed is crap. i now have spend so much money seeding and reseeding with crap seed, for a lawn full of weeds. in the long haul it is better probably to have a professional come in and do it.

i am weary with this battle and am over it

will792
Member

Originally posted by: Chunkee
i tell you what, i bought rebel grass seed, supposed to be good. my friggin yard is full of weeds. what a crock. i think the retail grass seed is crap. i now have spend so much money seeding and reseeding with crap seed, for a lawn full of weeds. in the long haul it is better probably to have a professional come in and do it.

i am weary with this battle and am over it

Most of the weeds come from the existing soil not from grass seed. The best way is to get rid of all grass and weeds on the existing lawn before seeding new grass (Using RoundUp or black plastic on hot days). There are selective herbicide products that destroy most of the weeds but grass has to be established to use them.

By the way Rebel is not a mainstream grass seed product. It is tall fescue grass, a new variety of lawn grass that was engineered to look like good lawn grass. The original version of tall fescue looks like a weed. I personally do not like Rebel. The advantage of tall fescue is that it has very deep roots so won’t die without watering in summer.

It is better to go with a traditional mix of Kentucky Blue Grass (called KBG by many), hard fescue and perennial ryegrass. Each type of grass seed has multiple cultivars some of which are really good.

I did not find any big company selling good quality grass seed at low cost. Most of these companies are regional and small.

Weed And Seed Lowes

DIY lawn care is actually much much cheaper than you think and today I’m going to talk through it when it comes to fertilizing your lawn and turning in double-dark green.

I’ve done posts like this before but it came up again recently when I was talking this weekend about the “Easiest Way To Get a Green Lawn, Fast.” In that video I talk about the 3 primary elements you want to look for in any fertilizer if you want to get your lawn green.

All 3 of those elements work directly with, on, or in chlorophyll. It just so happens that it’s chlorophyll that makes grass green. Push the chlorophyll and you push the color of the lawn, deeper, greener and even bluer. Check out the video here if you missed it.

In that video, I made a recommendation for those of you who don’t want to slog to the store and get fertilizer but would rather have something delivered right to your door. That product is 24-0-6 Flagship and it just so happens to have nice amounts of all 3 elements, and in some cases, those elements are in higher concentrations than anything found at your big box retailer anyway.

But why is the bag so expensive?
Answer: it isn’t when you break it down.

24-0-6 Flagship (with 3% Iron) and Bio-Nite™ – Granular Lawn Fertilizer is a 45lb bag and the cost is $55 delivered (includes shipping). So for sure, there is some shipping cost in there that takes the sticker price up some, but what I have done is formulated it to work REALLY well with a lower rate or what we call “fewer pounds on the ground.”

If you want to know the secret, that’s really it. I formulate my DIY lawn fertilizers to work VERY well at low rates. Throwing down less and getting the same results – let’s take a look.

Flagship DIY Granular Fertilizer: 45lbs

See also  Bulk Weed Seeds

Application Rate: 3lbs/1,000 (this means you spread 3lbs of product across each 1,000 sq ft of lawn area)
Bag covers: 15,000 sq ft 45/3 = 15

So you can get 15,000 sq ft of coverage from just one bag. To find out how much this will cost you for a single application, you have to know your lawn size.

Don’t Let The Math Deter You!

If this is starting to get confusing, please DO NOT click away – instead, get yourself some DIY Yard Care training. I have helped thousands of DIYers learn how to care for their lawns by teaching them the basics of lawn care and a lot of that starts with things like understanding your lawn size, and learning the lay of your land.

Before buying any fertilizer, invest in yourself by getting some good training that will set you up for success now and in the future. It’s full video and audio training plus a forum where we answer your questions. I’ll teach you all about fertilizers, what they do and how to apply them and why. We talk about all grass types too. You also get your choice of my warm or cool season full e-guide at the end of the course.

It’s all there, and I know you’ll be more confident after completing this training. Sign up for Yard Care BootCamp here. It’s never too late to invest in yourself so you can translate the knowledge to your lawn.

If You Have a 5,000 Sq Ft Lawn

And we know that a bag of Flagship covers 15,000 sq ft, and you have a typical 5,000 sq ft lawn, then you can get 3 applications from one bag. At a cost of $55 for the bag, that means each application only costs you $18.33.

Not too expensive is it?

Now compare that to a bag of Scotts lawn food at the local Home Depot.

Can you see in the top right that this bag covers 5,000 sq ft? And what is the cost?
Answer: $18.48

Pretty much the same as you getting some Flagship from me and having it sent right to your door.

So far we know Flagship is slightly cheaper and for sure more convenient. But how do these ferts stack up when it comes to nutrients?

I’ll tell you now – both are going to turn your lawn green. There really isn’t a “bad” fertilizer. And any company that is going to take the time to get themselves into a Home Depot is going to make sure their stuff brings the green. Plus, we all know Scotts: your dad and grandad used their products and had an awesome lawn right?

I can also tell you that Flagship works. My DIY friends all over FaceBook are posting results pics nearly everyday.

So how do these two stack up, side by side? Let’s look at the label:

The Scotts on the left has more nitrogen, that’s for sure. However, Flagship contains more potassium and more iron. Overall we can look at those as a wash.

Now the Scotts does have Sulfur and that is an important element, so I have to give them that one, but look at all the other minor nutrients that Flagship delivers for you.

Boron, Copper, Manganese, Molybdenum and Zinc. You will find those in short supply in many soil tests and here they are, riding along with the Nitrogen, Potassium and iron.

What About Bio-Nite?

Now, let’s look at one more differentiator and that’s the filler material. Truth be told, all fertilizers are actually mostly just “filler” material. There is only so much nutrient you can pack in before it becomes overkill so the rest is filler material to help make the fert easy to spread.

Most companies use something benign as their filler material – you could even say “useless” – and that’s ok. It’s just what is done.

With Flagship, however, I go a step further and add 10% of my filler as Bio-Nite. Bio-Nite is the Florida version of Milorganite and it contains additional slow release nutrients, including additional chelated iron, calcium and some other goodies. These are not claimed on the label because we use them as filler – but they are still there and they deliver the smell of success in the fert.

That smell of success is also great for building overall soil health because natural additives like biosolids (Bio-Nite is a biosolid) increase the soil’s overall carbon percentage. You don’t get that with the cheaper fillers used in the Scotts.

Lastly, there is the small business angle. Yard Mastery is now entering its third year in business my team and I work hard everyday to help our customers succeed while creating positive content for this community I have been building for more than a decade now. So let me once again say, “Thank you for supporting an American small business!”

I hope you’ve learned something here – even if you never buy fert from me, I hope you will take the thinking, approach and strategy I’ve taught you today and take better control of your budget as you continue on your DIY lawn care journey!

When To Apply Weed and Feed-Complete Year Round Guide

As a Lowes garden manager, one of the most asked questions I get is about healthy, green, weed free lawns. Here are my tips and directions for your Lowes lawn care program applying Sta Green or Scotts.

Weed and feed fertilizer will help improve your lawn.

The number one question: When is the best time to apply weed and feed to my lawn?

Well…it depends really. Where you live, whether you have sun or shade, and lots of other things make a big difference in what your lawn needs. Most regions in the United States can apply weed and feed from March till November.

A well-fed lawn is healthier, which means it has a better root system to combat heat, cold, drought, mowing, foot traffic and other stresses.

One easy to follow rule is to use the summer holidays as your guide.

If you’re going to fertilize, remember the summer holidays of Memorial Day, July 4th and Labor Day as good times to apply.

Weed and Feed Basics and the 4 Step Process

Ok, this is my disclaimer: This is my version of the 4 step program that I have used for years. It works! Make sure you always follow instructions on the bag and use the correct settings on your spreader.

You will find many different versions of weed and feed programs out there. They all will be some variation of the following:

See also  Osrs Dwarf Weed Seed

Step 1. Crabgrass Preventer
Step 2. Weed and Feed
Step 3. Summer Fertilizer with Insect Control
Step 4. Fall or Winter Fertilizer

The #1 Mistake: Skipping Step 1 and not using a crabgrass preventer.

The best looking lawns don’t have crabgrass for a reason; they use a crabgrass preventer every year! You can skip it if you want, but I don’t recommend it. Most people don’t realize this, but Scotts Halts and Sta Green Crabgrass both have fertilizer as well in the bag. So take care of the crabgrass and get in that first application of fertilizer.

Your soil supplies some of the nutrients that grass needs but most soils are not able to provide all of them during the entire growing season. Fertilizer helps your lawn stay healthy by promoting new blade and root growth and will aid in recovery from summer foot traffic and pest damage.

Weed & feed is the generic name for a broad range of lawn chemical products designed to strengthen existing grass and kill off certain weeds. It generally improves your lawn’s ability to absorb water and food, and adds necessary nutrients which promote healthy growth. A healthy lawn discourages weed growth and enables a strong root system for your lawn.

The “weed” portion of weed and feed is one of a variety of broad leaf-targeted herbicides, usually Dicamba or 2,4-D, that attacks dandelions, dollarweed, and most other green leafy weeds. The chemical is applied to and absorbed by the leaves of the weed.

The granules will not sit on grass blades, which is why weed and feed generally won’t kill grass unless it is incorrectly applied. There are also liquid forms of weed and feed that are generally applied with a sprayer.

The “feed” portion of weed & feed is a fertilizer that contains some combination of nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium to green up your lawn. The exact blend of fertilizer ingredients varies by brand, but all products will contain some percentage of nitrogen. Some products also include additional benefits, such as timed-released nitrogen for extended feeding.

When to Weed and Feed With Lowes Sta Green or Scotts

While feeding your lawn once a year will improve its condition, feeding it four times a year will make it even healthier. If you put your lawn on the regular schedule it will stay lush and green all season long.

Fertilize your lawn in the spring, early fall and/or late fall (such as late March, early April, early September and early November). However, if you live in an area with long, cold winters, then late April, August and the end of October may be best.

In most climates, late fall tends to offer better results because that’s when weeds grow stronger roots and take the herbicide to the roots along with it, killing them. You should also never fertilize any cool-season lawn during hot summer months.

If you live in the southern or western parts of the United States, such as Florida, Texas, Alabama or California fertilize your lawn in early summer and again in late summer or early fall. The application process is slightly different if you are using a product for southern lawns, such as Scotts Bonus S.

With all fertilizer schedules, you can add one treatment in midsummer, but avoid fertilizing when the temperature is too hot, particularly when it’s 85 degrees or above.

> Read our guide on southern weed and feed

Some Products Need Dry Lawn, Others Need Wet Lawn

For most areas of the United States, weed and feed products should be applied to a wet lawn either from rain or dew, on a calm day and left on the surface for 24 to 48 hours.

You can also wet the grass with a garden hose or turn on your sprinkler system for a few minutes before applying weed and feed.

The general exception is crabgrass control and southern weed and feed products.

Note: Scotts Bonus S, Sta Green Southern weed and feed and most crabgrass control products should be applied to a dry lawn.

A wet lawn helps fertilizer particles stick to the blades of grass and the weed leaves. To ensure that the particles have the best chance of doing their job, don’t water the lawn again for 48 hours.

If you’ve recently used grass seed, sod or sprigging, wait until your new grass has been mowed at least three times before applying any weed and feed product. For best results use a broadcast spreader set to the level indicated on the product package.

Early Spring: March – April. Step 1

Feeding your lawn in the spring strengthens roots and gets it off to a good start. Crabgrass control is the number one reason to use a pre-emergent fertilzer. If you had crabgrass last year, apply a combination fertilizer with a pre-emergent to control it.

Pre-emergents, such as those commonly used to prevent crabgrass, is weed control which must be applied before the weeds germinate. They are ineffective if the weeds are already actively growing.

You will only have about a 3 week window to apply Step 1. Use Scotts Halts plus Crabgrass Preventer or Sta-Green Crab-Ex Crabgrass Preventer. This early application is the most important part of getting a weed free and healthy green lawn. Yes, use it even if you didn’t have crabgrass last year.

Soil Temperature Map: Find your local ground temperature here

Step 1 should include pre-emergent weed killer and fertilizer used in early spring. This can be from mid March to late April.

Crabgrass normally germinates when the ground temperature reaches 55° F . This is also the ground temperature at which dogwood trees start to bud and forsythias begin blooming.

Late Spring: April – June. Step 2

Spring is prime time for lawns. Your grass is busy growing and using up stored energy. Step 2 weed and feed fertilizer is designed to strengthen existing grass and kill off weeds at the same time. Its also the best time to apply a weed and feed product.

Weeds want sun, water and food, which, is what your lawn needs too. That’s why you want to supply the lawn with a weed and feeding product designed for this time of year. Your grass is growing and unfortunately, broadleaf weeds are actively growing, too. It improves your lawn’s ability to absorb water and nutrients.

Weed & feed has a fertilizer to help “green up” your lawn. It also has a weed killer that targets broadleaf weeds like dandelions and many others. Many weed and feed products also have timed-release nitrogen for extended feeding.

The weed killer in post-emergent types of fertilizers are contact killers, and are effective only if the weeds are already actively growing. They will not kill weeds which have not yet germinated.

Applying in the spring and summer also gives your lawn a nitrogen booster that helps build the roots of your grass. Feed your lawn with a combination of fertilizer with broadleaf weed control like Scotts Turfbuilder with Plus 2 Weed Control or Sta-Green Weed and Feed.

Summer: June – August. Step 3

If you’re going to fertilize, remember the summer holidays of Memorial Day and Labor Day as the best times to apply. But what about summer months? What to do around the Fourth of July? Step 3 weed and feed products are designed for maximum effectiveness with a late-spring to mid summer application. They contain herbicides designed to kill actively growing broadleaf weeds like dandelions.

These herbicides are much more effective if you apply them in the spring or even the fall. At that time, the weeds are either growing or storing up reserves for winter and moving nutrients from the leaves to the roots. They move the herbicide to the roots at the same time, resulting in a better kill.

You can still apply weed and feed in the summer

It is not recommended to apply if the temperature will be above 90 degrees and no re-application of any fertilizer for another 30 days.

Summer is tough on grass. You can still apply a weed and feed product, but do so cautiously. Heat, drought, foot traffic, and insects stress it out. Feeding your lawn in the summer still helps to protect and strengthen it against these problems.

Lawns in warm-season grass areas should be fed over the summer months as they grow steadily from spring to fall. Also consider spot treatment of weeds by using a product such as Ortho Weed B Gon.

A more common problem you will see in the summer months are insects. If you see insects in your grass, use a feeding product that also contains insect control, such as Scotts Turf Builder with SummerGuard. For additional insect control try Ortho Bug B Gon Max granules or try Bug B Gone liquid spray around the perimeter of your home.

Fall: September – November. Step 4

Fall brings back ideal conditions for your lawn. Cool nights, ample rainfall and morning dew all contribute to new growth for your lawn and prime time for Step 4. If you missed an early spring application of weed and feed, now is the time to apply.

Since the lawn is ready to grow again, it is looking for the nutrients it needs to recover from summer damage. Some experts say this is the single most important lawn feeding of the year, more important than an early spring application. Apply your final feeding right before the winter months. You can apply a fall fertilizer until the average daytime temperature is above 50 degrees.

This means most regions of the United States can apply into late October. This will strengthen roots and increase nitrogen storage for an early spring green up next year. Try Scotts Turfbuilder with WinterGuard or Sta Green Weed and Feed Winterizer.

Planting Grass Seed or Aerating after Weed and Feed

Weed & Feed prevents seed germination, so you should avoid planting new grass or aerating your lawn for at least four weeks. If you apply weed and feed in the spring and summer, spread new grass seed and aerate in the fall each year.

Reasons Weed & Feed Didn’t Work

Remember to always follow the directions on the package. Always use a spreader to apply. Here are some common reasons why a weed & feed application could be ineffective:

  • Weed & feed targets broadleaf weeds like dandelions, and dollarweeds. It does nothing for crabgrass and other grassy weeds. For these, you should use a pre-emergent like Scotts Halts or Sta-Green Crab Ex crabgrass preventer in the early spring. Must be applied before weeds and crabgrass are growing.
  • Mature weeds are not actively growing, so the product will not be as effective. Weed and feed should be applied early in the growing season and a couple days after mowing.
  • Rain and sprinklers can wash away the granules. Make sure there is no rain in the forecast and avoid watering for two days after applying.
What if You Apply Too Much Weed & Feed?

The best way to avoid damaging your lawn after too much fertilizer application is to flush out the weed & feed. Water your lawn with 1 to 2 inches of water for about 4 days. It would be best not to apply any other weed & feed fertilizer until the following year. Unfortunately, over watering can create run-off in certain drainage situations, so be aware of your location and where the water is going.

A Healthy Lawn With Lowes Using Scotts or Sta-Green.

Enjoy a lush, healthy lawn with Scotts Turf Builder fertilizer or Lowes exclusive Sta Green Products. Both combine essential nutrients for even feeding and weed control from early spring through late fall. Both provide uniform coverage and improves your lawn’s ability to absorb water and other nutrients to keep it healthy and looking great.

Remember to use the major summer holidays as your guide to the 4 step program: Step 1 Crabgrass in early spring. Step 2 Weed and Feed around Memorial Day. Step 3 Insect Control around July 4th. Step 4 Fall Fertilizer around Labor Day.

The 4 Step Weed and Feed Program-Make Your Own

The 4 step program from Scotts has been around for years. Did you know that it’s officially only available at local hardware stores and not Lowes or Home Depot? But, you can make your own version easily.

The bags sold at independent stores, like Ace Hardware, are a slightly different analysis and the bags will have each step number printed on each bag.

For example, here’s the difference in the first two applications of the 4 step process.

4 step bag: Step 1 for crabgrass ratio: 26-0-03. Step 2 Weed and Feed: 28-0-06

Lowes bag: Comparable Step 1 Halts crabgrass ratio: 30-0-04. Comparable Step 2 Weed and Feed : 28-0-03

Not a big difference. Sure, you can make a 4 step program simply by purchasing the four bags at Lowes or Home Depot, and many of us do, but the actual 4 step Scotts fertilizer program is only available at your local hardware.

Here are a few more helpful guides for weed and feed, grass seed and crabgrass control: